Bookstores in Bratislava

Bratislava has goto some interesting bookstores worth discovering. It's not always easy to find them but it's not impossible. Those I will write about are placed in the same street: Panenská ulica (Virgin Street).

Bookstore ArtForum - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Bookstore ArtForum is at the end of the street and it has got a lot to offer. One can find some Slovak authors translated in English, French or German, as well as a wide range of books on Art, History, Politics, Philosophy... It's a very pleasant place, the books are correctly placed, the staff is helpful. One can buy books there or order by internet. And you can even ask for the most strange authors: the staff will not let you go without answer.

Bookstore next apache - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

On number 28 it's next apache. It's just a wonderful place: all around there are shelfs full of second hand english books. Bookstore is as well a bar/pub and it's set in an old Evangelical Lyceaum building with arched ceilings and creaky wooden floors. The owner is a Canadian who had the idea of making some kind of a cultural centre in the heart of Bratislava: there are also movie projections and live jazz performances. There is also a nice sunny courtyard in which to read books or newspapers and a computer where you can check whatever you want... The name of the bookstore is also interesting. It comes from owner’s attempt to memorize the Slovak language: "Nech sa páči"(next apache) meaning "here you are". And actually there we have a very nice place to spend a couple of hours...

Bookstores in Ljubljana

It's worth spending some time visiting some bookstores in Ljubljana. I will write here about two of them, that I found lovely.

Bookstore Behemot - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Behemot is a small bookstore specializing in quality books in English, placed at Židovska steza 3. One can find not only the great authors but also Art, and History books, albuns and some translations from Balcanian authors. Althought the books are very selected, one can find very nice things there. Some prices are atractive and it's possible to find there what it's hard to find in any other bookstore in Bratislava. The bookstore opened in 2005 and has the name of the cat from The Master and Margarita, by Bulgakov. It's a good place for those who love books.

Bookstore D. Cunjak - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

The antique Cunjak is placed at Gallusovo nabrežje 21, just in front of river Ljubljanica. This palce is just wonderful: there are books everywhere together with old typing machines, an old piano, a pendulum clock and picture of Tito and Lenine. There are second hand books and some of them are quite hard to find nowadays - for instance a Slovenian translation of Pedro Páramo by Juan Rulfo. The place is quite a mess, but actually this caos brings to the place some magical athmosphere. There are also some books in English and German.

Inside the bookstore D. Cunjak - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Ljubljana again

The three bridges and Prešeren Square - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

I had to wake up very early in the morning to be here, but finally here I am back to Ljubljana. The city is more or less the same: always some guys protesting in city centre, some homeless playing music and tourists fighting for a place at the cafes. It's nice to be back! I spent a all month here without getting tired of the city and I guess I could do the same again. Despit of everything it's a very pleasant city and it sells very well: more and more tourists each year. That could make Ljubljana an annoying city but actually it creats a very nice environment: the bars are always full, music here and there, always people walking at the streets...
There are some works at Kongresni Trg: they decided to build an undergroud parking and suddently they found Roman ruins. Now the archeologists are entertaining themsleves by destroying the garden and finding new stones. There were also a few changes in streets and roads. But the city didn't change a lot. That's good! It's nice to be back!

Kongresni Trg - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Bratislava again

Well, Professor told me he would be out on wednesday, and since I was a bit bored in Martin I've decided to take the day off as well. The weather suddently broke and a storm came to Martin. It was rainning cats and dogs. I decided to go to Bratislava and run to catch the train. After Trenčín the weather was much better, waht made me believe Martin was somwhow doomed.
It was cloudy when I arrived to Bratislava. Anyway I found the city wonderful. The thunders gave to the sky a special magic. Despite of the cold wind, having dinner near the Danube with the view to the old town and that wonderful sky is indescribable. It may look an horror movie, but yet it is magic.

A mamut at the Slovak National Museum - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

I've visited some museums today. The first one was the Slovak National Museum, that is actually a museum of Natural History. I was convinced I was going to see paintings but afterall I saw stones, fossils and animals. Even if the animals look furry and sweety they don't look barroc paitings, that was what I was expecting to see.

No, it's not a Ford stand: it's the National Gallery in Bratislava - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

The National Gallery is not far from the Slovak National Museum. No doubt it hosts paitings, but the organization of the exhibition roms is a bit awquard. The worst is tha bad taste of the corridor connecting two parts of the museum. It's nothing that can't be destroyed. Now tay used it to put outdoor commercials. What else it could be used for?

Having coffee at Maximilian - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Finally i went to bookstores. It was a nice surprise to find Act of the Damned by António Lobo antunes translated into Slovak. Havinf coffee at Maximilian is another thing you can't miss in Bratislava. It's placed at the main square and it's a very pleasant place. It's also very pleasant to have a walk at the gardens of the Presidential Palace: a very calm and quite place just in the city centre. E finalmente a típica visita às livrarias. Foi uma boa surpresa descobrir O Auto dos Danados traduzido em eslovaco. E tomar café no Maximilian é outra das coisas obrigatórias em Bratislava. Afinal de contas fica na Praça Principal e é um sítio bem agradável. E agradável é também passear nos jardins do Palácio Presidencial: um sítio bem calmo no centro da cidade.

The gardens of the Presidential Palace - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

To the end, obviously because of the sunset, I let the television tower (Televízna veža Kamzík), from where you can have an outstanding view over the city and the surroundings. How beautiful it is to see the sun disapearing behind te mountains!....

View of Bratislava from the television tower - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Sunday in Bratislava

Slavin - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

It’s hot as hell: for sure more than 30ºC. The only pleasant place might be the monument to the soviet soldiers who died in 1945 to make Slovakia “free”. On this Sunday Bratislava is empty, very calm and quite. From Slavin one can see the all city. No doubt it is a very nice place. There is some fresh wind and the statue offers a nice shadow. It’s another example of a nice place that could have had other function in the city. That place is supposed to be very mourning and tragic, where it is forbidden to walk the dogs and jogging so the lovely memory of those who fought for the “freedom” of Slovakia can be preserved. But I think that could be the perfect place to feel the spirit of Bratislava: a place where people could meet, see all the city around and the Danube… Bratislava needs some crazy ideas to make a change. Crazy but simple ideas can make the difference. There is a need to renovate the city by giving the spaces back to the people.
The train station is very scary. The train has no air conditioned. I shall buy some bottles of water so I can endure three and half hours inside the train. People go to the train half hour before to reserve the best sits, that are those far from that hot sunshine. It’s 6:10pm. The train leaves on time. It’s a farewell to Bratislava, that starts to disappear on my backs. Soon it will be the sunset. On that moment I thought how beautiful it might be to see the sunset from the Slavin.

View of Bratislava from the Slavin - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Danubiana

© Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

One of the nicest places in Bratislava stays actually 15 km away from the city. It’s Museum Danubiana, a museum of modern art that is opened for almost 9 years. The museum is placed on the edge of a peninsula where the Danube flows and it is possible to reach it by boat for example. The project is quite ambitious and is the result of the initiative of a Slovak gallery owner and a Dutch collector and art patron.

The building, that evokes the shape of a Roman galley, is surrounded by a garden and several sculptures. The museum has got a gallery of contemporary art where the exhibits are on sale an audio-visual centre, a lecture hall and on the first floor there are shows by leading international artists. There is also a very cosy Art Café that extends to the outer space and allows the visitors to take a coffee right in front of the Danube. The museum tries to be a wave of modernity, for not only its content but also the framework, being a fusion of outstanding natural landscape, modern architecture and contemporary art.

The exhibition of Robert Combas in Museum Danubiana - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Not far from there is a little channel where it is possible to practise some water sports and also cycling through its banks. Unfortunately there are not so many public transports to Museum Danubiana but it’s worth trying to get there by bus and by foot. Even if you will be lost in the middle of nowhere for some time.

© Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Bratislava

View of Bratislava from the Castle - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

First one sees some buildings far away. Then the shapes are more defined. Bratislava is 50 km away from Vienna but it’s very different. They just share the Danube. Before Bratislava was part of a very different world from Vienna. It suffered serious damages during the war and then it was swallowed by the socialism. The Iron Courtain started 50 km away from Vienna. After the communism and the Czechoslovak Republic, Bratislava became the capital of new country with a long way ahead. The reforms came, the European Union came and this year the Euro came as well. Bratislava was rebuilt after the war by the socialist regime. The style was the usual one. The socialist kitsh is everywhere side by side with buildings craving for renovation, but yet trying to keep all its dignity. When the 90’s began the socialist was gone. At least apparently. People are not necessarilt different. Petržalka, a neighbourhood standing on the south side of the Danube, was already stocked with socialist blocks. However someone thought it was not enough and new buildings appeared. On the other side of the river they thought the same: the new National Theatre is the major example of bad taste. Fortunately there are less shocking constructions like Apollo Centre, that mixes a very sober architecture with spaces for people.

Apollo Centre - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

One of the major problems in Bratislava seems to be the complete divorce between the city and the Danube. There are lots of projects, there were few international trenders, but the government of the city is always postponing the projects.
The Castle of Bratislava stands in the hill. It witnesses a city trying to renovate itself but that takes the risk of losing its personality. Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav looks to the National Theatre (the old one) on the square named after him. Just a bit to his right, the street is interrupted by a fence. The US Embassy thought it was a very good security mesure. It’s not that bad since they built a wall before. The old synagogue is just a memory. It was destroyed on late 60’s so the new bridge over the Danube (Nový Most or Most Slovenského Národného Povstania – Bridge of the National Slovak Uprising) could be made. However, there is a monument standing on the place where the synagogue existed once… so that everybody could be happy.

The Presidential Palace - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

Main Square - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009

The Danube and Nový Most - © Gonçalo Figueiredo Augusto, 2009